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Over the past 4 years I’ve had a very successful dog training course on the Internet. Thousands of people have used it to change their dogs from being a nightmare into the loving companions and family members that they wished for.

My course covered about 95% of all problems. But every once in a while a customer would contact me with a problem I’d not had before. So I would take action to solve the problem. How? I would contact another expert.

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That is the phrase I hear every day. Perhaps you have said it or thought it today. I’m not surprised, with the best will in the world, we all have our…read more

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Are you frustrated by your disobeying dog who poops and pees all over the house, chews up everything in sight and jumps on every guest? Or do you have a new puppy but don?t know where to begin with potty and obedience training?

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MILLIONS of dog owners around the world make the SAME mistakes with training their dogs and the reason why you do is because you are human and he is a dog. Your natural instinct is to train him by using human language. Such as telling him no when he tries to jump up on a stranger, or by scolding him when he digs up the front lawn.

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How can you tell if your puppy is suffering from separation anxiety?

1. Your puppy acts up, is destructive, and eliminates in inappropriate areas of the home when you are away.
2. Your puppy blocks the door and tries to stop you from leaving.
3. Your puppy gets very excited or anxious when you begin closing the house shades or picking up your car keys to leave.
4. He follows you everywhere around the house scared to miss a thing.

Why does one dog suffer from anxiety and another does not?

• A big event may have occurred such as a home break-in, a severe thunderstorm or a move to a new home
• You went on a vacation and left the puppy alone with a dog sitter checking in
• You left the puppy at the kennel for an extended period of time
• You and your spouse recently went through a divorce
• One of the children moved away to college
• You were self-employed at home, and have recently gone back to an office job

What Symptoms Will Your Puppy Begin to Show?

• barking or whining
• having accidents
• chewing destructively
• howling
• digging
• biting patches or hair off
• loss of appetite
• throwing up or diarrhea

What Can You Do to Help?

1. Start leaving your dog alone for short bursts throughout the day. This lets your dog know that you won’t always be there, but you will always come back.
2. Make sure that your dog has everything they need while you are way, such as water, food, and toys.
3. Make sure to walk your dog or let them run around for a while before you leave for an extended period of time.
4. If your dog is housetrained already and they have a way to eliminate while you are gone, try leaving them their big meal to eat before you go. This will help kill some time for them.
5. Consider adding another pet to your family. Many animals want a companion home with them.
6. Leave your pup in their crate or another secure area.
7. Make sure that your dog has had obedience training. This helps them learn how to control their emotions.
8. Pay a neighbor or a friend to stop by and let your pup out and play with them in the middle of the day
9. Leave the TV or radio on so there is noise in the house.
10. Leave your pup with a special treat that they love and only get when you are leaving. Soon they may want to push you out that door to get something yummy for their belly!

There are a lot of methods that you can try to ease your dogs suffering. If none work, your dog may have a more severe case of separation anxiety and you should consult your vet. There are medications and treatments that can be prescribed.

Have you ever seen your dog take a nice long stretch after a nap by placing his two legs out in front of him, and raising his bottom in the air? This is actually the bow position that we are trying to accomplish on demand. If your dog is already doing this motion, grab your clicker and your treats and get ready to reward your dog. Each time they perform the action, click and reward. After several round of this, begin to add the verbal cue word “bow.”

If you don’t get lucky enough to have your dog perform the action on his own, I have a step-by-step method to train your dog to take-a-bow.

Step-By-Step Instructions:

1. Stand in front of your dog with your target sticks in hand.
2. Hold the target stick level to your dog’s nose and move it toward the floor.
3. If your dog follows the target stick even just a little bit, click and reward your dog.
4. Continue this process, but make it a little harder to earn the treat. Wait until your dog’s elbows bend a little and get closer to the floor, then click and reward.
5. Next, make your dog’s elbows touch the floor before you click and reward.
6. Once your dog’s elbows are consistently touching the floor, you will want to begin concentrating on the back legs. They should be straight up tall. If they bend down, and your dog lands on the “down” position, do not click and reward. This is the most common problem that you are going to run into with the “take-a-bow” dog trick.
   If your dog is collapsing into the “down” position then you are waiting too long for the click and treat. Begin to reward your dog quicker. This will help to get your dog into the habit of not collapsing into the “down” position receive his treat. You may want to make your dog go after the treat instead of handing it to him. Dogs are more likely to keep their legs straight if they are about to run off and chase something (like a treat).
   Most of the time this will be enough to get your dog into the habit of keeping his legs straight. Sometimes it is not enough though. If your dog insists on going into the down position, try placing a rolled up towel just in front of his back feet under his belly. He will not be able to reach the floor with this towel as a barrier. Your dog will want to keep his legs straight to avoid his belly hitting the towel.
7. After you have managed to train your dog to keep his legs straight in the back pause for a moment or two before you click and treat. This will build up your dog’s time in the bow position.
8. Once the action is easy for your dog to perform, you will want to attach the cue word “bow” to your training sessions. You can also use “stretch” or “take a bow”.
9. Begin to phase out the training sticks and have your dog rely on your verbal cue “bow.” You can phase out the sticks by making them shorter and then finally taking them away for good.
10. Your final step will be to remove the clicker and the treats from the process. Your dog should be able to perform the entire action by simply saying, “bow.”

Your dog will love to perform this trick for people that you come across, so make sure to let your dog shine and give him the cue when appropriate. It is also good to reinforce the trick in other locations other than your original training spot. If your dog seems to be a little confused or not able to perform the trick for others or in a different location, you may need to back up a few steps and give your pup a few refresher lessons. Dogs are creatures of habit and the like familiar people and places. Some dogs don’t want to perform their new trick for a stranger or in a strange location, but most dogs will thrive with this new exposure that you are offering to them.

Most dogs that suffer from excitement urination are nervous around other dogs or humans who appear to be dominant over them. They want to express that they are beneath others and do not even realize what they are doing. Their bodies’ naturally chose this as an action of submission. As owners we need to remember that this is a subconscious act not a potty training issue.

Where would you find excitement or submissive urination?

• Negative experience from the past
• Lack of training
• Poor socialization
• Lack of confidence in a dog
• Young puppies who do not know how to show other dogs or people respect
• Fear
• Insecurity
• Nervousness
• Shyness
• Abusive owner

If you are looking to help your dog move past their submissive urination, there is a lot that you can do to help. You will first want to boost you dog’s ego and self-confidence. Another helpful method is to give you dog a replacement behavior to use in situations where your dog would feel compelled to pee.

Keeping a positive attitude around your dog, and not being too assertive will go along way. While you don’t want to make you’re the head of the household, you do want to help their confidence level. This is not a time to punish your dog. Punishments will only cause the behavior to worsen, as you are asserting your dominance over your dog every time that you punish him.

While it is critical to help your dog improve his confidence level, you also want to make sure that you are not enforcing the submissive behavior by coddling your dog or giving affection when he exhibits the urination behavior. If after each time he pees uncontrollably you pick him up and tell him that everything is going to be okay, he will want to do it more often to gain your attention. Instead, when the excitement urination occurs, you should simply ignore the situation and clean up the mess.

I know that this might seem like a hard balance to obtain between building your dogs confidence and not coddling him, but it can be done.

You can really help your dog by socializing him to the area around him. You want him to feel comfortable with the people in your home, visitors, neighbors, other dogs, and other places. A great way to do this is to take your dog on at least one leash walk a day. This will expose him to many different factors and situations.

Another way that you can help your dog to control his submissive urination is through dog obedience classes. When your dog becomes predictable with his urination, you can try to divert his actions to another behavior. For example, if your dog pees every time the UPS deliveryman comes to the door, you can tell your dog to heel. Once you train your dog to do tricks these are also great distracters that you can ask your dog to do. Shaking hands/paws is one of my dog’s favorite tricks.

Growing up our dog, Mandy, always use to pee when we came home or someone came into the house. We would tell them not to pet her or pay attention to her upon entry. We would put her leash on and take her straight to the backyard. After she was able to urinate outside and calm down for a few minutes we would bring her back in to socialize with our guests or us.

There is no step-by-step program for building your dogs confidence. It takes time and a lot of trial and error to see what works for your particular pup. Your dog may not be able to get over this behavior entirely, but there are workarounds to make you and your dog happier.

Puppies, like babies, want to chew on something (anything) when they are teething. Whether it is his favorite chew toy, or your hand, they want to sink those sharp little teeth into something.

Don’t worry though, there are many things that you can do to minimize your puppy’s biting.

Do you remember when we talked about socializing your puppy? This will be a huge help in the biting phase. Remember, we want to encourage acceptable behavior and discourage bad behavior.

While it might seem like a natural reaction to swat at your puppies face to get them to stop biting you, this is actually not the approach that you want to take. Firstly, you never want to be mean to your pet. Secondly, this can sometimes backfire on you and get your puppy more riled up.

Speaking of riled up, you want to avoid wild activity games with your pet. Games such as tug of war, chase, wrestling, and keep away are all activities that actually encourage biting in a dog. This is not to say that you can never play these games with your dog. Just not during the training process.

You will want to use a consistent command word every time your puppy begins to bite. I personally like to use “STOP.” It is direct and clear and the puppy will know to stop doing what they are doing. In order for this to work, you and the other puppy caregivers must use this command word each and every time the puppy begins to bite. As with most dog training, reinforcement is key.

Again, going back to our dog obedience lessons, you want your puppy to know who is boss. Sometimes a puppy will start biting you to show you who’s boss (or who they think is boss – THEMSELVES)! With our first dog, my mom had trained him fairly early to stop biting. However, whenever I was alone with her, she would bite me. Eventually we realized that we had a control issue. Even though I was only 8, I had to become more of a master over her, instead of just a playmate. The biting soon stopped.

As with all of your puppy training, this will start from day one. First, your puppy’s littermates (brothers and sisters) will show the puppy not to bite. This however is usually done by them biting back when your puppy bites them first. Once you actually get your puppy home alone, the ball is in your court.

1. When your puppy begins to bite your hand, stay STEP, remove your hand, and replace your hand with a chew toy.
2. When your puppy bites you, say “ouch” and look sad. Dogs can really sense emotions in people, and they do not want to be the cause of pain to their owners. After you say “ouch”, get up and walk away from the puppy. This will show him that he will lose his playmate if he continues to bite.
3. If your puppy begins to get more aggressive with biting, say “NO” very loudly and put your thumb inside his mouth, under his tongue, and use your other finger under his chin. Hold it there firmly, but gently, for about 10 seconds. Your puppy will not like this sensation, and with their mouth in this position, they can’t bite you.
4. Put Tabasco sauce or another strong flavor on your hands. When your puppy goes to bite you, he will get an unwelcome surprise taste in his mouth.
5. Get a clean spray bottle and fill it with water. Every time your puppy bites you, squirt them with the water bottle.
6. Roll up an old newspaper and secure with rubber bands. Each time your puppy bites you, slam the paper on a nearby desk. The sound will really scare your puppy, without hurting him.

These techniques will work great for you, as long as you are consistent with your training. Should you have any further concerns, or it appears that you have an aggressive dog by nature, I recommend that you consult your breeder as well as your vet.

Paper-training is simply training a puppy to go to the bathroom in a specific area of the house, on a paper or absorbent disposable mat. Many pet owners select the bathroom as the room of choice. Most bathrooms are tiled, which makes for an easier clean-up should any urine leak off of the paper or mat. Of course the hope would be for the urine to remain in the designated area, but accidents do happen.

If you do chose to paper-train your puppy, you must be committed to the training process. This can be very confusing to your dog to be praised for going to the bathroom inside and outside. Therefore you should be very consistent in the location of their “indoor potty.”

Step-by-step Instructions for Paper-Training

1. Select a small room or area in the house that is accessible to your puppy. Ideally it will have a linoleum or tile floor for easy cleaning. A bathroom, hallway corner, or laundry room are excellent choices.
2. Place newspaper or an absorbable disposable mat on the floor. It should be a large enough area that the dog can circle the area (similar to how he/she does outside). Test the absorbency of your paper by pouring several ounces or water as a test run. You can shrink the size of the papered area as your puppy becomes more familiar with this new way to eliminate.
3. Keep the “indoor potty” area clear of doggie toys and food and water bowls. Dogs do not like to eliminate near their food and water, so you have a much better chance that they will pick the newspaper over another area closer to their bowls and toys.
4. When you are ready to begin training, bring your puppy over to the designated area. Ideally you want to do this shortly after your puppy has had a meal. They are most likely to feel the need to go to the bathroom 15 minutes after consuming food.
   Keep in mind, when you are at home with the puppy, in another area of the house, to return him to the paper train area about every half hour.
5. To start, begin using your command words/cue that you selected for your outside potty training. Try and keep them on the newspaper or mat. Repeat the command over and over again until they begin to go.
6. If you pup does begin to go, and they are off of the paper, try to slide the paper under them. You want to train your puppy that the paper is associated with eliminating. Make sure not to scold your puppy if they miss the paper. This is a training exercise and you don’t want them to have negative feelings towards paper-training.
7. If your puppy hits the target and goes right on the paper, make sure to praise them with great enthusiasm. You really want your puppy to know what a good job they did. You can give them a treat or a favorite chew toy.
8. If your puppy will not go at all, whether on the paper or off, you will need to sit down and get comfortable. Try and keep them in the area until they go. Again, after a meal this shouldn’t take too long.
9. You will need to reinforce this process several times a day for several weeks. As a dog-owner you will need to decide whether your paper indoor potty is out all of the time, or only when your pup will be alone for long periods of time. Some owners only put it out at night and during work hours, while others leave it out all of the time.

Another option is to paper a section of your yard. This way the puppy knows that the paper is meant for elimination.

Once your puppy becomes paper-trained, don’t be surprised if one Sunday morning you are looking for the sale sheets and they are soaking wet. Most puppies don’t know the difference between one paper and another. While keeping your paper potty in the same area of the house may help, it is not a guarantee that your puppy will only think of that paper as a potty.